
Sweet Smell of Succession
Dynasties don't last forever. But Estée Lauder's grandkids aren't about to let this beauty empire crumble.
from the Sept. 19, 2005 issue
By Daniel Roth
Every few months the two women gather in the CEO's office to talk about
their problems. Both of them--the glamorous, creative type with a
fondness for A-list events and the shy, no-nonsense manager who spends
her days marketing to soccer moms--get a chance to give the chief
executive a piece of their mind. Sometimes they even bring in a
moderator to keep the discussion flowing. There's probably a plot for a
bad reality show in this scenario; certainly it's an unorthodox use of
the CEO's time. But when you're family, you do what you have to do. And
in the case of the Estée Lauder Cos., the giant of the
prestige-cosmetics world, family is everything. So CEO William Lauder
and his cousins Aerin Lauder Zinterhofer, who oversees the Estée Lauder
brand's image, and Jane Lauder, a vice president at a new division
called BeautyBank, gather and clear the decks: What's bothering them?
What is working and what is not? The caution makes sense. Around the
world the conventional wisdom is that they will fail. Not them,
exactly, but their generation: the grandchildren of a legendary
founder. The Italians say, "Dalle stalle, alle stelle, alle stalle"--
"From the barn stalls, to the stars, back to the barn stalls." In
Yiddish it's "Schmattes to schmattes in three generations," or up from
rags and back down. In Chinese, it is chilly and blunt: "Wealth does
not pass three generations." But Estée Lauder's grandchildren are doing
everything they can to make sure the proverbs won't apply to them.
The world of cosmetics and fashion is watching closely to see if they
can pull it off. In April 2004, Estée Lauder, the longtime undisputed
queen of the cosmetics world, died at age 96. Three months later
William became CEO, taking over a job that his father, Leonard, once
held. The family business--the Lauders control 82% of the company's
voting shares--continues to dominate the high-end beauty industry, with
hot brands such as Bobbi Brown in makeup and Aveda in hair care. Lauder
captures almost a fifth of the $33 billion U.S. beauty market overall
and roughly half of the $13 billion prestige business. But it faces
daunting challenges and new challengers. Estée Lauder's empire was
built during the age of the great department stores, when the
destination for the latest fashions and styles was Neiman Marcus, not
Target. That era ended long ago. Yet about 40% of the company's sales
still come from mostly older customers at these one-time giants in the
U.S. Meanwhile, Lauder is being pressured on the high end of the market
by nimble, boutique beauty brands, and on the low end by giant
manufacturers such as Procter & Gamble that are determined to erase
the boundaries between prestige and mass market.
To make sure the company keeps its edge in the changing cosmetics
landscape, the three Lauder cousins are taking on much more than family
counseling. (The fourth cousin, William's brother, Gary, 43, is a
venture capitalist in Silicon Valley.) They could easily live off the
$2.2 billion the family has taken out in stock offerings since the
company's 1995 IPO, or on the millions that each makes in dividends
every year. Instead, they're hunkered over spreadsheets, ad layouts,
and store plans. And they've all carved out roles in the company that
appear to fit their personalities perfectly.
Estée's grandkids were long ago assigned their own one-dimensional
identities by the media. When you grow up as royalty in New York high
society, that's bound to happen. Still, they don't do much to dispel
the images. As the eldest, William, 45, is the responsible one, setting
the direction and overseeing details. Aerin, 35, is known as the
pretty, outgoing one, but she's far more than that. She recently took
over directing everything from advertising to counter displays for the
flagship--and stagnating--Estée Lauder brand and personally recruited
superstar designer Tom Ford (who is, of course, a friend of hers) to
bring it some sparkle, sex, and buzz. The press-wary Jane, 32, is seen
as serious and hard-working. She's also a canny problem solver. Mostly
behind the scenes, she is leading the company's charge into mid-tier
markets that are crucial for growth.
Despite their different personal styles, the third-generation Lauders
share an intense dedication to the family legacy. William, Aerin, and
Jane all exude earnestness as if it's the next big fragrance. A few
years ago they got together and decided to make sure they were all on
the same page about where they wanted to take the business. So they
drew up a manifesto: "We are not a family business, we are a family in
business." While hardly the Gettysburg Address of corporate mission
statements, the document made it clear that the good of the company
would come first--and that those looking for a family brawl should
probably look elsewhere. "My grandparents did such an incredible job
building this company, and gave us so many advantages, that you want to
be able to keep it going," says Jane. "It's hard to separate your life
and your work because they're all kind of the same thing. Maybe there
should be more separation, but there isn't."